The Driehaus Museum, Chicago

As I have already mentioned, yesterday I made a visit to the Driehaus Museum. I have walked by this building numerous times during the last two years and noticed that it was a museum. I had intended to make a visit, but it wasn't until a friend mentioned it to me a few days ago that everything clicked and compelled me to finally come here. 

The Driehaus Museum is housed in the old mansion home of a 19th century Chicago banker, Samuel Mayo Nickerson, who eventually sold the place. The house itself is the museum and an excellent example of Gilded Age splendor. While originally a private residence, eventually, over the decades, the mansion was purchased by Chicago philanthropist, Richard H. Driehaus, after which it underwent a major restoration between 2003 and 2008 and was then converted into a museum. So, the museum itself is new, while the mansion itself has stood on this site for more than a century. It now stands as a testament to Old Chicago's grand architectural beauty. If ever you are in Chicago, you must pay the Driehaus Museum a visit.

Because the Museum asks visitors not to use their flash when taking photographs, and because yesterday was a gray day, most of my photographs came out too dark. Below are the photos that I deemed acceptable for posting, although I will say they do not do justice to the extravagant beauty you will find at the Driehaus Museum. To see it in all its intricacy and grandness, you must visit the place yourself. There were so many rooms that I couldn't keep track of which room served which function, and so the captions below are going to be generic. I am also going to refrain from commentary and just let the architectural beauty of the Driehaus Museum speak for itself. Enjoy!  

The Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL 

Room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Wood detail, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Mosaic relief on a mantel, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Corner detail, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Room detail, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL 

Side table and lamp, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Sconce, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL 

Mantel, Library (I believe), Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Ceiling detail, gallery, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL 

Stained glass dome, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL 

Statue, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Moorish style mantel, upper floor, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL 

Fireplace, upper floor room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Alcove, upper floor room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Stained glass, upper floor room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Wood floor detail, upper floor room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Wood floor detail for alcove, upper floor room, Driehaus Museum, Chicago, IL

Check it out: Driehaus Museum

Saying Goodbye to Chicago, Part Nineteen: The Loop, Vol. Six

The Palmer House Hilton Hotel

The Palmer House (now known as the Palmer House Hilton) was built by Potter Palmer as a wedding gift to his bride, Bertha Honore, and was completed in 1875. It was actually built to replace a previous hotel, also built by Palmer, which was destroyed by the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, just thirteen days after it opened. While I find the exterior of the Palmer House to be rather austere, and I don't recall ever seeing a photograph of the first hotel, the lobby of the Palmer House is a classic specimen of Gilded Age extravagance and splendor. A Chicago landmark, the Palmer House has had its share of famous guests, including, at its beginning, Sarah Bernhardt, Ulysses S. Grant, Mark Twain, and Oscar Wilde.

The Palmer House can also claim me as a previous guest, as once, several years ago, when I lived out West, I took advantage of a good deal to stay at the Palmer House during one of my visits back to my hometown. After all, how many people, other than myself, are crazy enough to visit Chicago in the frigid dead of winter? When I entered the lobby, I remember being simply stunned by its amazing beauty. A few days ago, when I returned for the purpose of taking photographs for my blog, I was still in awe of the lobby's beauty. Such intricate beauty is just not created anymore. Don't get me wrong, I love a lot of modern architecture, but the attention to detail that is very characteristic of older architecture is no longer a quality of modern architecture, with its simple, clean lines.

What I also like about the Palmer House is that it runs counter to some of the popular narratives about Chicago. Often, when people think of Chicago, they think of its sports culture, like the Chicago Cubs or White Sox, or they think of deep dish pizza or Italian beef sandwiches, or about Al Capone. When they think of Chicago architecture, they think of the work of Ludwig Mies van de Rohe, which is completely devoid of embellishment, and the work of other, similar architects. They don't always think of the high ornamentation found in the Palmer House's interior or the high cultural aspirations of Chicago's 19th century elite class. Not that I would want to live in such an age, with its social and economic inequality, but it's nice to walk into such a beautiful specimen of older architecture and, like with the lobby of the Rookery, feel yourself transported to that distant time, if only to enjoy the contrast between their sensibilities and those of our own age.

Entrance staircase, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

This view greets you the moment you enter the front door. While grand in its own right, with elaborate floor lamps anchoring at both ends, this staircase gives you no indication of the incredible beauty to be found in the lobby.

Sconce detail, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

After emerging from the front staircase, you begin to see it. The color is just beautiful!

Lobby ceiling, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

With the intricately decorated ceiling, the lobby is reminiscent of some grand hall or ballroom, rather than a hotel lobby.

Architectural relief detail, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

The decoration is an interesting mix of botanical, animal, human, and mythical. I see leaves and flowers, as well as a human being, two roosters, and two gryphons. Very cool!

Lobby staircase with grand lighting feature, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

Wall mirror and Palmer crest, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

That "P" encircled by a garland of leaves represents Potter Palmer and family. Don't let that "window" fool you. It only looks like it lets on to a different room with an identical ceiling, but the windowpanes are actually mirrors.

Floor light detail, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

Attention is given to detail. Even these lamps look imperial.

Lobby ceiling, long view, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

This photo gives you an idea of the sheer length of the lobby and the great height of the ceiling.

Columns and architectural details, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

The color combination of red, blue, and green is very striking. It's festive but very tasteful.

Architectural detail and wall clock, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

I didn't want to leave without getting a decent photo of the clock. This side of the lobby lets on to another grand room that is used for events.

Saying Goodbye to Chicago, Part Eleven: Chicago Cultural Center, Vol. 3

Here are the last photos I will post as part of my series on the Chicago Cultural Center. I hope you have enjoyed its beauty as much as I did during my visit. A little confession: I have passed by this building innumerable times and only recently have I bothered to make a visit. Yesterday's visit was only my second; my first visit was a couple of months ago for "Morbid Curiosity: The Richard Harris Collection," which featured skull and skeleton art from around the world. Needless to say, the Southwesterner in me found that art exhibit to be very cool.

Coleridge, too! Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Another great master! Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Beautiful arches, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Ceiling detail and French and German writers, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Street view of Millennium Park Bandshell, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

As you can see, across the street lies Millennium Park, and nearby are the Art Institute of Chicago, the Chicago Architecture Foundation, and the Chicago Symphony Orchestra. The Chicago Cultural Center is within walking distance from many of Chicago's other highly prestigious cultural institutions. You can easily "make a day of it."

Saying Goodbye to Chicago, Part Ten: Chicago Cultural Center, Vol. 2

Most of the photos posted here will focus on architectural details found in one of the grand rooms of the Chicago Cultural Center, where the free concert (which was excellent!) took place yesterday. It is a lively, colorful room, thanks largely to the colorful mosaics featured on the walls. The Chicago Cultural Center also has some beautiful glass domes that are part of the ceiling in a couple of rooms. Unfortunately, I didn't care for the results of my attempts to capture them on camera.

I am going to strike a minimalist approach to providing text here, as so many of these photos are self-explanatory. I will write something only if I really feel called to do so. In other words, just enjoy the views!

Mosaic, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

The "CPL" found in the mosaic circle here is the logo for the Chicago Public Libraries. In a previous incarnation, the Chicago Cultural Center served as Chicago's central library. Now, the main public library is Harold Washington Library, named after the late Mayor Harold Washington. I hope to get some photos of that library before I go.

Menorah detail, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Of course, as a Jew, I simply must take a photo of the menorah. It is simply beautifully done, and I always feel a sense of pride when my tradition is represented in something built for the general community.

Chaucer, author of The Canterbury Tales, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Spenser, author of The Fairie Queen, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

The Great Master himself, only a different spelling, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Above are some of the great literary masters whose names grace the walls of the Chicago Cultural Center. While all three of these are English authors, the Chicago Cultural Center also bears the names of non-Anglophone writers.

Ceiling detail, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Preparing for the concert, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

I managed to stay for half of the unanticipated piano concert before hunger drove me to find lunch. Unanticipated on my part, as I kind of stumbled upon this concert when I made my visit. But it is free and held every Wednesday, so next week I might be more intentional in my attendance. This room, by the way, has wonderful acoustics.

Egyptian hieroglyphics, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Hebrew, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL 

 Of course, I had to take a photo of the Hebrew inscription!

Arabic, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

I'm assuming Chinese, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Greek? Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Arches, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

Which shines more brightly, the ceiling lamp or Wordsworth's name? Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

I was happy to see some of the Romantic poets recognized on the walls. Coleridge is listed on another mosaic plaque.

A quote from a literary master, Chicago Cultural Center, Chicago, IL

The walls carry quotations by many literary masters. Most of the quotations, if not all of them, make statements about the value of literature or books.

I have one more installment to make for the Chicago Cultural Center. There was just so much to appreciate and, in truth, the photos I post here are just a fraction of the photos I actually took.