Yuccabloom: A Memoir of Meaningful Meanderings: Saying Goodbye to Chicago, Part Nineteen: The Loop, Vol. Six

The Palmer House Hilton Hotel

The Palmer House (now known as the Palmer House Hilton) was built by Potter Palmer as a wedding gift to his bride, Bertha Honore, and was completed in 1875. It was actually built to replace a previous hotel, also built by Palmer, which was destroyed by the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, just thirteen days after it opened. While I find the exterior of the Palmer House to be rather austere, and I don't recall ever seeing a photograph of the first hotel, the lobby of the Palmer House is a classic specimen of Gilded Age extravagance and splendor. A Chicago landmark, the Palmer House has had its share of famous guests, including, at its beginning, Sarah Bernhardt, Ulysses S. Grant, Mark Twain, and Oscar Wilde.

The Palmer House can also claim me as a previous guest, as once, several years ago, when I lived out West, I took advantage of a good deal to stay at the Palmer House during one of my visits back to my hometown. After all, how many people, other than myself, are crazy enough to visit Chicago in the frigid dead of winter? When I entered the lobby, I remember being simply stunned by its amazing beauty. A few days ago, when I returned for the purpose of taking photographs for my blog, I was still in awe of the lobby's beauty. Such intricate beauty is just not created anymore. Don't get me wrong, I love a lot of modern architecture, but the attention to detail that is very characteristic of older architecture is no longer a quality of modern architecture, with its simple, clean lines.

What I also like about the Palmer House is that it runs counter to some of the popular narratives about Chicago. Often, when people think of Chicago, they think of its sports culture, like the Chicago Cubs or White Sox, or they think of deep dish pizza or Italian beef sandwiches, or about Al Capone. When they think of Chicago architecture, they think of the work of Ludwig Mies van de Rohe, which is completely devoid of embellishment, and the work of other, similar architects. They don't always think of the high ornamentation found in the Palmer House's interior or the high cultural aspirations of Chicago's 19th century elite class. Not that I would want to live in such an age, with its social and economic inequality, but it's nice to walk into such a beautiful specimen of older architecture and, like with the lobby of the Rookery, feel yourself transported to that distant time, if only to enjoy the contrast between their sensibilities and those of our own age.

Entrance staircase, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

This view greets you the moment you enter the front door. While grand in its own right, with elaborate floor lamps anchoring at both ends, this staircase gives you no indication of the incredible beauty to be found in the lobby.

Sconce detail, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

After emerging from the front staircase, you begin to see it. The color is just beautiful!

Lobby ceiling, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

With the intricately decorated ceiling, the lobby is reminiscent of some grand hall or ballroom, rather than a hotel lobby.

Architectural relief detail, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

The decoration is an interesting mix of botanical, animal, human, and mythical. I see leaves and flowers, as well as a human being, two roosters, and two gryphons. Very cool!

Lobby staircase with grand lighting feature, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

Wall mirror and Palmer crest, Palmer House, Chicago, IL

That "P" encircled by a garland of leaves represents Potter Palmer and family. Don't let that "window" fool you. It only looks like it lets on to a different room with an identical ceiling, but the windowpanes are actually mirrors.